Soft/Medium/Deep Chemical Peel for Face, Neck & Decolletage

What a chemical peel actually is

A chemical peel is the controlled application of an acid or acid blend to the skin to drive a precise, time-limited resurfacing response. By choosing the acid type, concentration, application time and number of layers, the peel can be calibrated from very gentle (no visible peeling, mild glow) to medium-depth (5–7 days of visible peeling, significant pigment and texture improvement). The art is matching the peel to the skin and the goal.

We work entirely with medical-grade systems and we do not use deep phenol peels — modern alternatives (combinations of medium peels, lasers, microneedling) are usually safer and more controllable.

The acid families we use

• AHAs (glycolic, mandelic, lactic) — water-soluble, work on the surface and through the upper epidermis. Glycolic is the workhorse; mandelic is particularly kind to darker skin tones.
• BHAs (salicylic) — oil-soluble, penetrate sebaceous follicles, ideal for oily and congested skin.
• TCA (trichloroacetic acid) — the medium-depth workhorse, often combined with Jessner's solution, used for pigmentation, photoageing and texture.
• Combination protocols — e.g. Jessner's followed by TCA, designed peels for specific indications.

What chemical peels treat well

• Sun-induced pigmentation and dullness — well-evidenced indication for medium-depth peels
• Post-inflammatory pigmentation (post-acne marks) — gentler peels, especially mandelic, work cumulatively
• Texture and superficial fine lines — particularly TCA-based protocols
• Mild acne and oily skin — salicylic peels in courses
• Hand and décolletage rejuvenation — alongside facial work

For melasma specifically, we usually recommend a structured Cosmelan or Obagi programme rather than peels alone, because melasma needs ongoing maintenance and the depigmenting systems are designed for that.

Who suits a peel — and who does not

Most adult skin types are appropriate for some form of chemical peel — the question is which peel. Pregnancy and breastfeeding, active acne flare with cystic lesions, recent isotretinoin (within 6 months), active eczema or rosacea flare in the area, and active herpes simplex outbreak are contraindications. Darker Fitzpatrick types are not contraindicated — they just require careful acid selection.

What happens on the day

After consultation, the skin is cleansed and degreased. The chosen acid is applied in controlled layers, with continuous clinical monitoring of the skin's response. For some peels we neutralise actively; for others (self-neutralising TCA-based peels) we time application to a clinical end-point. We finish with a post-peel serum, mineral SPF and detailed aftercare.

Priming matters

For any medium-depth peel, we typically recommend 2–4 weeks of priming skincare beforehand — usually a tyrosinase inhibitor, retinoid and SPF. This dramatically reduces the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation and improves the peel's outcome. We are honest that skipping priming for convenience compromises results.

Recovery and aftercare

Superficial peels: minimal flaking for 2–3 days. Medium peels: visible peeling 5–7 days, sometimes longer. Strict SPF 50 every day for at least four weeks afterwards is non-negotiable. Lapsed SPF is the single most common reason peels disappoint.

Course and maintenance

Most superficial peels are best as a course of 4–6 sessions, 2–4 weeks apart. Medium peels are typically 1–3 sessions with longer recovery between. Maintenance — and the right home skincare programme — is built into every plan.