Melasma Treatment

Practitioner-led Cosmelan depigmentation system for melasma and stubborn pigmentation.

Melasma Treatment

Duration

60 min

From

£950

Treatment Summary

Cosmelan is the most established medical depigmentation system for melasma and stubborn pigmentation. Treatment combines an in-clinic mask phase with a structured 6-month home programme. Melasma is a chronic, relapsing condition — Cosmelan can produce dramatic improvement, but ongoing maintenance and rigorous SPF discipline are essential. We are honest about that from day one.

Also known as: Cosmelan peel · Cosmelan 2 · depigmentation system · melasma peel · pigmentation programme

Key Benefits

Most Established Depigmentation System

Cosmelan is internationally used and supported by long clinical experience for melasma.

Two-Phase Protocol

In-clinic mask plus structured 6-month home phase — both matter for the result.

Effective Across Skin Types

Used across Fitzpatrick I–VI, with appropriate skin priming and aftercare.

Practitioner-Led, Not Beauty-Counter

We assess the type of pigmentation, brief on realistic expectations and plan maintenance.

What Cosmelan is

Cosmelan is the most established medical depigmentation system in international aesthetic dermatology — a structured protocol from mesoestetic combining a strong in-clinic depigmenting mask (Cosmelan 1) with a 6-month home phase (Cosmelan 2 plus supporting products). It is specifically designed for melasma and other stubborn pigmentation that has not responded to standard skincare.

It is not a generic peel and not a single-visit treatment. The home phase is half the treatment.

Honest framing of melasma

Melasma is a chronic, relapsing condition. It has hormonal, vascular and UV-driven components, and it can return with sun exposure, pregnancy, hormonal contraception change, or interruption of maintenance. Cosmelan does not 'cure' melasma. What it can do — and does well, in motivated clients — is produce significant improvement and bring the condition under good long-term control with structured maintenance.

We are honest about this from day one. Promising a one-and-done fix is misleading; planning for sustained management is realistic and works.

How it works

The Cosmelan 1 mask combines several depigmenting actives that target tyrosinase — the key enzyme in melanin production — and modulate melanogenesis at multiple steps. The in-clinic mask delivers a strong initial reset; the Cosmelan 2 home cream and supporting products then maintain and deepen the effect over the following 6 months.

The treatment journey

Priming (2–4 weeks): We recommend skin priming with a tyrosinase inhibitor, retinoid and SPF where appropriate, to prepare the skin and reduce post-inflammatory pigmentation risk.

Mask day: The Cosmelan 1 mask is applied at the clinic and worn for 8–12 hours (timed to your skin type) before being washed off at home. The skin will be red and tight afterwards.

Days 1–7: Redness, tightness and peeling. Use Cosmelan 2 and supporting products exactly as briefed. SPF 50 every day.

Months 1–6: Continued use of Cosmelan 2 cream and supporting products on a structured schedule. We review at 4 weeks, 3 months and 6 months.

Beyond 6 months: Maintenance — typically a maintenance cream and ongoing rigorous SPF. Some clients combine with Obagi as a longer-term maintenance route.

Who suits Cosmelan

Cosmelan suits motivated clients with melasma or stubborn pigmentation, who can commit to:

  • Six months of structured home care
  • Daily SPF 50 — without exception
  • 4–7 days of redness/peeling after the in-clinic mask
  • Honest expectations about long-term maintenance

It is not appropriate during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or for clients who cannot reliably use the home phase. Without the home phase, the in-clinic mask is half a treatment — we will not do the mask alone.

Across skin types

Cosmelan is well-established in Fitzpatrick I–VI — and is often safer than aggressive lasers in darker skin, because it targets melanogenesis biochemically rather than thermally. Priming, the home phase and rigorous SPF matter even more in darker skin to avoid post-inflammatory pigmentation rebound.

SPF, honestly

Daily SPF 50 broad-spectrum (mineral or hybrid) is the single biggest factor in whether Cosmelan results hold. We treat it as an active part of the protocol, not a finishing touch. Lapsed SPF is the most common reason pigmentation returns. If SPF is not realistic in your daily life, Cosmelan is not the right treatment.

What to Expect

  1. 1

    Pigmentation Consultation

    We confirm the pigmentation pattern (melasma, post-inflammatory, sun-induced or mixed) and discuss realistic expectations and maintenance.

  2. 2

    Skin Priming

    Skin is primed for several weeks beforehand with a tyrosinase inhibitor, retinoid and SPF where appropriate.

  3. 3

    In-Clinic Cosmelan Mask

    The Cosmelan 1 mask is applied at the clinic and worn for 8–12 hours before being washed off at home.

  4. 4

    Home Phase

    Cosmelan 2 cream and supporting products are used on a structured schedule for 6 months, with reviews.

Suitability

Aesthetic care is highly individual. The points below are general guidance — final suitability for melasma treatment is always confirmed in your consultation.

Often suitable for

  • Melasma — epidermal or mixed pattern, in motivated clients
  • Stubborn sun-induced pigmentation that has not responded to home skincare
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in suitable cases
  • Clients willing to commit to 6 months of structured home care and rigorous SPF
  • All Fitzpatrick types with appropriate priming and protocol modification

May not be suitable if

  • Pregnancy or breastfeeding (defer until at least 6 months post-pregnancy/feeding)
  • Clients unable to commit to the home phase or to daily SPF
  • Active eczema, rosacea flare or open sores in the area
  • Recent isotretinoin use (within 6 months)
  • Active herpes simplex outbreak in the treatment area

Aftercare

Caring for your results

A few simple steps in the first 24–48 hours help your results settle as expected.

  • Expect 4–7 days of redness, peeling and tightness after the mask (longer in darker skin)
  • Use Cosmelan 2 and supporting products exactly to schedule — the home phase is half the treatment
  • Strict daily SPF 50 — broad spectrum, mineral or hybrid — throughout and after the programme
  • Avoid sun, saunas and hot yoga for 2 weeks; minimise direct sun for 3 months
  • Do not pick or peel skin during recovery — let shedding happen naturally

Treatment Areas

  • Face
  • Neck
  • Décolletage
  • Hands

Cosmelan is a CE-marked depigmenting protocol developed by mesoestetic, with over two decades of international clinical use for melasma and stubborn pigmentation. The active formulation targets tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis. Peer-reviewed and post-market evidence supports significant improvements in melasma severity scores when delivered with appropriate priming, technique and adherence to the home phase. Melasma itself remains a chronic, relapsing condition — sustained improvement requires ongoing maintenance and SPF discipline.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will Cosmelan cure my melasma?

No — and any clinic that says otherwise is misleading you. Melasma is a **chronic, relapsing condition** with hormonal, vascular and UV components. Cosmelan can produce dramatic improvement and keep melasma well controlled with structured maintenance, but pigmentation can return with sun exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptive change) or interruption of maintenance. We plan for long-term management, not a one-off cure.

How does Cosmelan work?

Cosmelan combines several depigmenting actives that target tyrosinase — the key enzyme in melanin production — and modulate melanogenesis at multiple steps. The in-clinic Cosmelan 1 mask delivers a strong initial reset; the Cosmelan 2 home phase maintains and deepens the effect over 6 months.

How long is the downtime?

After the in-clinic mask, expect 4–7 days of visible redness, tightness and peeling, sometimes longer in darker skin. The skin then continues to improve over weeks. The full programme is 6 months because that is how long the depigmenting effect needs to fully establish.

Is Cosmelan safe in darker skin tones?

Yes — Cosmelan is well-established in Fitzpatrick IV–VI, often safer than aggressive lasers in darker skin precisely because it targets melanogenesis biochemically rather than thermally. Priming, the home phase and rigorous SPF matter even more in darker skin to avoid post-inflammatory pigmentation rebound.

Can I do Cosmelan if I might become pregnant?

We defer Cosmelan during pregnancy and breastfeeding and recommend waiting at least 6 months post-pregnancy/feeding before starting. If pregnancy is likely in the next 6 months, we will discuss whether now is the right time — melasma often worsens with pregnancy, and treating right before is rarely worthwhile.

How important is SPF?

Critical — and not negotiable. Daily SPF 50 broad-spectrum (mineral or hybrid preferred) is the single biggest determinant of whether Cosmelan results hold. Lapsed SPF is the most common reason pigmentation returns. We build SPF into the programme as an active treatment, not a finishing step.

What about Cosmelan vs Obagi?

Cosmelan is a depigmenting **mask plus home protocol**, weighted heavily towards an initial reset. Obagi (typically Nu-Derm) is a longer **structured home programme** without the in-clinic mask. We choose between (or combine) them based on melasma severity, skin type, downtime tolerance and lifestyle. Some clients run Obagi as long-term maintenance after a Cosmelan reset.

Ready to take the next step?

Book a private consultation with our team to discuss melasma treatment in West Hampstead and decide together whether it is the right treatment for you.